Devil's Racetrack - A Climbers Guide

By Kenny Cambell & Rusty Deal (as plagiarized by Andy Welter)

The purpose of this guide is to provide information about a local area that we've all either climbed at or at least heard about. Because there is no way to know all the correct history of this area, there are no first ascentionists listed. If some route names are incorrect we apologize. There are also no directions because of possible access problems. So if you're from out of town, befriend a local or commence to wackin'. The bottom line is simply names and numbers, and as always, use good judgement.

    Main Flake (North Face)

    Routes are listed right to left (West to East)

  1. Welcome to the Jungle 5.11d Mixed. The first route on the obvious overhanging nose of the main spire. Share the 2nd pitch with Russian One-step.
  2. Green Eggs & Ham 5.8 Trad Just left of the Jungle, work your way thru some loose looking rock to a notch behind a flake and continue to belay on One-Step.
  3. Sonic Temple 5.8 Trad. Climb face to a large lie-back and belay from fixed anchors on ledge. Then move left at big crack and straight to top.
  4. Lucy in the Sky 5.9 Sport. Follow the obvious bolt line for 150' of FUN. Finish at chains or continue to top and rap off eye bolts. 9 bolts.
  5. Gargoyle 5.11d Sport. Thin finger crack and long stem. Shares chains with Trick-or-Treat. 5 bolts.
  6. Trick or Treat 5.10b Sport. Slightly overhanging crack to chains. 5 bolts.
  7. Malice in Wonderland 5.10b/c Sport. Face route left of TOT closed shuts 4 bolts.
  8. Dancing with the Devil 5.11b Sport. Thin Steep face shares shuts with Malice. 4 bolts.
  9. Flesh Gordon 5.11c Sport. 30 yards uphill of Dancing Chains 4 bolts.
  10. Rumpleforeskin 5.11c Sport Starts on ledge above Flesh on a steep detached face. Runout on easy ground to first bolt. Cool exposure! Chains 6 bolts..
  11. Fatman Squeeze 5.6 Trad. On inside flake of Rumple. Classic chimney moves.
  12. Day at the Races 5.9 Sport. 10 yards uphill of Rumple. Scramble up ledge to first bolt. Negotiate way to top. Chains, 7 bolts.
  13. Little Wing 5.10b Sport. 20 yards uphill of Races. Slab to a lie-back. A MUST DO!! chains, 8 bolts.
  14. Look Ma NO Head 5.11b Sport. Follow 4 bolts up an overhanging face, then up easy ground to chains. 5 bolts and 2 slings for horns.
  15. Wet Willie 5.10a Sport. Just left of Look Ma. Chains, 5 bolts.
  16. Tree Rash 5.11c Sport. Thin hard start. Chains, 5 bolts.
  17. South Face (the Alley)

    Listed from left to right (West to East)

  18. Psycho Lizards 5.10a Trad. 10 yards uphill of the Jungle. Climb face to small roof. Pull roof and continue to top skirting the edge of the flake.
  19. Zombie Stomp 5.11c Sport. Pulls thru same roof system as Lizards. Ends at chains above roof 6 bolts.
  20. Russian One-step 5.7 Trad. Start on obvious ramp-like ledge. Traverse left for 70' to a belay ledge. Pull bulge and climb nose to top. Sweet!
  21. Santa Claws 5.10c Trad. Climb sort face to a roof with horizontal cracks. Pull roof and head for the tree 70' up.
  22. Palm Tree 5.8 Sport.Starts at base of the large tree. Clip 5 bolts and rap or lower off tree.
  23. Bounty Hunter 5.9 Sport. Right of Palm. Follow short diagonal crack. Move left to tree. 5 bolts.
  24. Great Balls of Fire 5.7 Trad. Follow large diagonal crack. belay on ledge.
  25. Little Ol' Lady 5.6 Trad. Climb up crack system and belay under large overhanging nose. (not pictured)
  26. Moon Rock

    No topo given

  27. Moon Doggies 5.6 Mixed. Climb up the nose of Moon Rock, clip 2 old pins and belay from chains at top.
  28. Vertical Imbalance 5.9 Mixed. Just right of The Jungle. Pull through 2 small roofs protected by bolts, then follow the small crack to chains on top.
  29. Kix Tracee 5.9 Trad. 25' left of VI, climb up poor looking rock and skirt large roof to right. Continue to top.
  30. Natural Lite 5.7 Trad. On back side of Moon Rock. Climb Jugs and sling big horns. Belay from chains.

Other Routes

On the lower wall there are three trad routes (That we know of). These are Egocentric, 5.8. It starts almost in the middle of the wall and pulls a small roof. There are rap anchors on top. On the right of Ego is an unnamed 5.9+ and on the left a 5.8. The huge crack you see, from Moon Rock, is quite simply Cracked 5.8. There are also 2 new sport routes here. The left route is a 5.9 with a long run-out at the roof at the top. To the right is another route, beginning on a left facing dihedral.

Route Topos

Note: These are large images, and will appear in a separate window.


Back NOTE: Information taken verbatum from Knox Rocks Newsletter Volume 1, Issue 2. Information not verified, and may have changed since original publication. New information and my comments are in italics Last Updated : May 17, 2001